Simple tips for growing Oriental poppies

Foretelling summer, Oriental poppies infuse late spring with a blast of pure, bright colour. Here are some simple tips for growing Oriental poppies in your outdoor space.

• The 12-centimetre-wide (five-inch-wide) cup-shaped flowers have petals with the texture of crepe paper in fabulous shades of red, wine, orange, pink, and white. When the setting sun strikes their big translucent petals, they seem to light up the garden.
• New foliage appears early in spring, with divided leaves about 30 centimetres (one foot) tall emerging from central rosettes with long taproots.
• Soon thereafter, straight one metre (three foot) flowering stalks appear in time to bloom along with bearded iris, continuing for about two weeks.
• Then the leaves slowly brown and vanish in midsummer. Do not be concerned, as new foliage will magically appear in fall, and the period of dormancy helps the plants survive summer heat.
• Oriental poppies are gorgeous when planted against a fence or wall or anywhere that breezes can stir the long-stemmed flowers. You can also use them to punctuate the back of a mixed perennial border.
• It is best to plant them singly, because you'll have a gap in midsummer when they go dormant.
• Place a plant close by that will swallow up the space, such as baby's breath or obedient plant.

The old-fashioned Oriental poppies usually have shiny red flowers, and there are many red cultivars, from 'Brilliant' to 'Prince of Orange.' Variations that offer dramatic texture with their ruffled and deeply fringed petals are 'Türkenlouis', in a rich red, and 'Curlilocks' in an orange-red.

• If you prefer subtler, softer colours, Oriental poppies are happy to comply. 'Helen Elizabeth' has salmon petals set off by purplish-black centres, and 'Raspberry Queen' blooms in a luscious sherbet shade. 'Royal Wedding' and 'Perry's White' both have white petals with central black blotches.
• To help these fabulous flower colours stay fresh in arrangements for several days, cut stems in the morning, quickly sear the base of the stems over a flame, and condition them by submerging the stems for several hours in deep, cool water before arranging.

• Propagate Oriental poppies by division, which is best done in summer after the foliage dies back. Dig deeply to remove the entire taproot of each plantlet.
• Seeds are also an option, although seedlings will not necessarily look exactly like their parents.

• Set out purchased plants in spring, in fertile, deeply-dug soil, in sun in the cool-summer climates or in slight afternoon shade in warm regions.
• Once they are established, leave these perennials undisturbed, adding a 2.5 centimetre (one inch) layer of compost or well-rotted manure as a top-dressing each fall.
• Fertilize only in spring and fall while leaves are growing. And don't overwater; Oriental poppies are adapted to dry conditions.
• For neatness, remove the stems, either before seed heads ripen or after. The round, smooth pods can be dried and used in flower arrangements.
• Pests rarely bother this tough perennial. If sap-sucking aphids or spider mites occasionally stipple leaves with small pale spots, simply wash them off the plant with a forceful spray of water.

Oriental poppies and low-maintenance flowers that live for many years with little care. With these simple tips, adding Oriental poppies to your garden has never been easier!